SPORT CLIMBING GEAR GUIDE

There are a bazillion options out there and anything rated UIAA is going to be super good enough. These are our recommendations for if you are just starting out, don’t have anything yet, and don’t want to fall down the gear rabbit hole.

Shoes

Starter Shoes

If you are just getting started climbing, our recommendation is to stick with a shoe that is relatively flat and relatively cheap. There really aren't many meaningful differences within this category of shoes. Each shoe will have a slightly different shape, which will make some work well for your foot and others work poorly. We recommend trying on as many as you can before making a decision. 

When making a decision about a particular shoe, make sure that you explore many size options as well. An ideally fit climbing shoe hugs your foot with little to no extra space inside. This means that your toes will be sitting against the front of the shoe. Climbing shoes tend to push the foot forward, so you will likely find space on top and behind of your foot rather than in front. If you try on a shoe and have this space, try a little smaller. Once you have eliminated all the space from inside a shoe, then you can make a decision about whether it's the right one for you. There are enough options in the cheap, flat category that you can normally find one that is both fully filled and super comfortable enough.

Climbing shoes run very differently brand to brand. Evolv, Black Diamond, Butora, and Five Ten shoes all run very close to street size. Scarpa, La Sportiva, and Tenaya all run significantly larger. It is not uncommon to wear a street sized Five Ten shoe and a 2 EU downsized La Sportiva shoe, they really just run that much bigger. This is why it is important to try many sizes and work your way towards having little to no space inside the shoe.

Different shoe materials break in differently. Many entry level shoes are made of primarily unlined suede leather. Suede stretches a lot, so being on the side of discomfort in a shoe like this out of the box is totally okay. Other shoes are made of synthetic materials that don’t break in nearly as much. These shoes will get more comfortable and soften over time, however the overall shape and volume stay very much the same. It is okay to be a bit more conservative when sizing a synthetic shoe.

La Sportiva Tarantulace

  • Cheap
  • Fits a wide variety of foot shapes well

Scarpa Origin

  • Velcro closure is very simple.

Evolv Defy

  • Wide heel shape

La Sportiva Finale

  • Great for a narrower, high arched foot

Scarpa Helix

  • Great for a narrower, lower arch foot

Evolv kira/kronos

  • Slightly softer than other options, may perform better on big smeary feet common in the gym