{"id":10574752022843,"title":"Excalibolt: proof tester for climbing bolts","handle":"excalibolt-proof-tester-for-climbing-bolts","description":"\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHave you ever wanted to take a fall on every bolt you place to make sure they are strong enough? Excalibolt allows you to proof load bolts to 4 kN. And it is light and easy to use. The Excalibolt weighs 10 oz, when you add a torque wrench (not Included) you are looking at ~6 lbs on your harness.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAt HowNot2 we are pretty good at testing bolts to destruction to find the breaking strength, but what if you want to know whether the bolt is strong enough without breaking it? There are proof testers on the market, but they are big, expensive, and require either a load cell or a PSI gauge and hydraulics. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBrian Dziekonski, a retired engineer and prolific route developer and rebolter, recognized this need and came up with the Excalibolt. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInstead of relying on converting the force from a PSI gauge or measuring it with a load cell, the Excalibolt uses force generated with a torque wrench and multiplied by a camming lever. Apply 112 ft-lb (152 Nm) and the lever arm applies a tension load of 900 lbf or 4 kN on the bolt. Theoretically. This is not a super precise lab grade tool, mainly because it is not being used in a precise lab environment and not everyone uses a torque wrench correctly. In our tests we saw the Excalibolt apply forces between 3.7 kN to 4.3 kN. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBrian chose 4 kN for several reasons. According to many tests by HowNot2 and others a big lead climbing fall will apply 4 kN to a bolt. Secondly many bolts start to permanently deform between 6 and 8 kN. The socket for the torque wrench will begin to fail around 7 kN which limits the damage an enthusiastic user can do. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBrian chose to test tension as it is the worst case scenario, if a bolt can withstand a tension load it can withstand that same load in shear. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHow to use: You need a torque wrench with a ½” drive that can measure 112 ft-lb (152 Nm) (not included). Attach the Excalibolt. Remove the pin and install on glue in bolt or climbing hanger. In our testing the device is compatible with most glue in bolts and climbing hangers. Once installed apply 112 ft-lb (152 Nm) with the torque wrench. To avoid applying too much force make sure you understand how your torque wrench works. If the test has no effect on the bolt, the bolt passes. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis tool is especially nice for glue ins, it provides peace of mind that the glue cured properly. It can also be used for mechanical bolts. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDesigning and manufacturing the first batch of this tool is a gift from Brian to the recreational communitee that uses bolts for life support. If you are a bolter plus member you are getting these at the cost of materials and processing. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","published_at":"2026-09-12T14:48:48-07:00","created_at":"2026-09-12T14:14:30-07:00","vendor":"Arete","type":"bolting Accessory","tags":["Arete","Bolting Tools","bolting-plus-item","Sport"],"price":7900,"price_min":7900,"price_max":7900,"available":true,"price_varies":false,"compare_at_price":null,"compare_at_price_min":0,"compare_at_price_max":0,"compare_at_price_varies":false,"variants":[{"id":51679541625147,"title":"Default Title","option1":"Default Title","option2":null,"option3":null,"sku":"Arete-Excalibolt","requires_shipping":true,"taxable":true,"featured_image":null,"available":true,"name":"Excalibolt: proof tester for climbing bolts","public_title":null,"options":["Default Title"],"price":7900,"weight":260,"compare_at_price":null,"inventory_management":"shopify","barcode":"41625147","requires_selling_plan":false,"selling_plan_allocations":[],"quantity_rule":{"min":1,"max":null,"increment":1}}],"images":["\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1052.png?v=1789247829","\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1058.png?v=1789247829","\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1057.png?v=1789247829","\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1055.png?v=1789247829","\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1056.png?v=1789247829"],"featured_image":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1052.png?v=1789247829","options":["Title"],"media":[{"alt":null,"id":48809066004795,"position":1,"preview_image":{"aspect_ratio":1.0,"height":2000,"width":2000,"src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1052.png?v=1789247829"},"aspect_ratio":1.0,"height":2000,"media_type":"image","src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1052.png?v=1789247829","width":2000},{"alt":null,"id":48809066037563,"position":2,"preview_image":{"aspect_ratio":1.0,"height":2000,"width":2000,"src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1058.png?v=1789247829"},"aspect_ratio":1.0,"height":2000,"media_type":"image","src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1058.png?v=1789247829","width":2000},{"alt":null,"id":48809066135867,"position":3,"preview_image":{"aspect_ratio":1.0,"height":2000,"width":2000,"src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1057.png?v=1789247829"},"aspect_ratio":1.0,"height":2000,"media_type":"image","src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1057.png?v=1789247829","width":2000},{"alt":null,"id":48809066070331,"position":4,"preview_image":{"aspect_ratio":1.001,"height":1999,"width":2000,"src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1055.png?v=1789247829"},"aspect_ratio":1.001,"height":1999,"media_type":"image","src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1055.png?v=1789247829","width":2000},{"alt":null,"id":48809066103099,"position":5,"preview_image":{"aspect_ratio":1.0,"height":2000,"width":2000,"src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1056.png?v=1789247829"},"aspect_ratio":1.0,"height":2000,"media_type":"image","src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/IMG_1056.png?v=1789247829","width":2000},{"alt":null,"id":48809738174779,"position":6,"preview_image":{"aspect_ratio":0.563,"height":1920,"width":1080,"src":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/files\/preview_images\/4aaa8485561f4a199c3ccb29d7a897ab.thumbnail.0000000000.jpg?v=1789258763"},"aspect_ratio":0.563,"duration":41000,"media_type":"video","sources":[{"format":"mp4","height":480,"mime_type":"video\/mp4","url":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/videos\/c\/vp\/4aaa8485561f4a199c3ccb29d7a897ab\/4aaa8485561f4a199c3ccb29d7a897ab.SD-480p-1.5Mbps-94244039.mp4?v=0","width":270},{"format":"mp4","height":1080,"mime_type":"video\/mp4","url":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/videos\/c\/vp\/4aaa8485561f4a199c3ccb29d7a897ab\/4aaa8485561f4a199c3ccb29d7a897ab.HD-1080p-7.2Mbps-94244039.mp4?v=0","width":606},{"format":"mp4","height":720,"mime_type":"video\/mp4","url":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/videos\/c\/vp\/4aaa8485561f4a199c3ccb29d7a897ab\/4aaa8485561f4a199c3ccb29d7a897ab.HD-720p-4.5Mbps-94244039.mp4?v=0","width":404},{"format":"m3u8","height":1080,"mime_type":"application\/x-mpegURL","url":"\/\/hownot2.com\/cdn\/shop\/videos\/c\/vp\/4aaa8485561f4a199c3ccb29d7a897ab\/4aaa8485561f4a199c3ccb29d7a897ab.m3u8?v=0","width":606}]}],"requires_selling_plan":false,"selling_plan_groups":[],"content":"\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHave you ever wanted to take a fall on every bolt you place to make sure they are strong enough? Excalibolt allows you to proof load bolts to 4 kN. And it is light and easy to use. The Excalibolt weighs 10 oz, when you add a torque wrench (not Included) you are looking at ~6 lbs on your harness.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAt HowNot2 we are pretty good at testing bolts to destruction to find the breaking strength, but what if you want to know whether the bolt is strong enough without breaking it? There are proof testers on the market, but they are big, expensive, and require either a load cell or a PSI gauge and hydraulics. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBrian Dziekonski, a retired engineer and prolific route developer and rebolter, recognized this need and came up with the Excalibolt. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInstead of relying on converting the force from a PSI gauge or measuring it with a load cell, the Excalibolt uses force generated with a torque wrench and multiplied by a camming lever. Apply 112 ft-lb (152 Nm) and the lever arm applies a tension load of 900 lbf or 4 kN on the bolt. Theoretically. This is not a super precise lab grade tool, mainly because it is not being used in a precise lab environment and not everyone uses a torque wrench correctly. In our tests we saw the Excalibolt apply forces between 3.7 kN to 4.3 kN. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBrian chose 4 kN for several reasons. According to many tests by HowNot2 and others a big lead climbing fall will apply 4 kN to a bolt. Secondly many bolts start to permanently deform between 6 and 8 kN. The socket for the torque wrench will begin to fail around 7 kN which limits the damage an enthusiastic user can do. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBrian chose to test tension as it is the worst case scenario, if a bolt can withstand a tension load it can withstand that same load in shear. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHow to use: You need a torque wrench with a ½” drive that can measure 112 ft-lb (152 Nm) (not included). Attach the Excalibolt. Remove the pin and install on glue in bolt or climbing hanger. In our testing the device is compatible with most glue in bolts and climbing hangers. Once installed apply 112 ft-lb (152 Nm) with the torque wrench. To avoid applying too much force make sure you understand how your torque wrench works. If the test has no effect on the bolt, the bolt passes. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis tool is especially nice for glue ins, it provides peace of mind that the glue cured properly. It can also be used for mechanical bolts. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDesigning and manufacturing the first batch of this tool is a gift from Brian to the recreational communitee that uses bolts for life support. If you are a bolter plus member you are getting these at the cost of materials and processing. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e"}