Why sleeve bolts? Sleeve bolts make for easy installation and secure hold on softer rock. The sleeve adds strength by making contact with the rock throughout the length of embedment. This makes sleeve bolts more appropriate for weaker rock and varying rock types.

This 4-piece 304 Stainless Steel Sleeve Bolt is composed of a hex cap bolt, washer, sleeve, and a straight-knurled conical nut of all the same stainless steel grade. All four components have been passivated for extra corrosion resistance. Climbing Taiwan chose hex bolts (partially threaded) because they offer additional strength over set screws (fully threaded) particularly in radial loads. Components are manufactured in China and further processed, inspected, and assembled in Taiwan.

Since sleeve bolts have a smaller bolt enclosed in a larger sleeve, installation is different compared to wedge bolts. They will require a differently sized hanger compared to the drill bit that’s needed to drill out the hole. Below is a guide to each bit, hanger, and wrench required for each.

Sleeve Bolt

Hanger Diameter
(Bolt Size)

Bit Diameter
(Sleeve Size)

Wrench Size
(Hex Head)

Torque

10 mm

8 mm
10 mm *

10 mm (3/8" will not work)

13 mm
1/2 inch

15 lb (20 N.m.)

12 mm

10 mm
12 mm *

1/2" *

12 mm

17 mm
11/16 inch

25 - 30 lb (30-40 N.m)

*Make sure the sleeve fits inside the hanger hole

For hanger hole size & bolt diameter interaction (e.g. the hanger going on the hex bolt vs. the sleeve), we have some observations based off testing HERE of the pros and cons. Our current preferred configuration for the 12mm sleeve bolt is using a 10mm (3/8") hole hanger that goes on the hex bolt. For 10mm sleeve bolts, either configuration is fine, yet the hanger on the bolt is still our preferred way.

For all general rock climbing and routes with more traffic, we recommend the 12mm sleeve bolt size, especially for any overhanging or steep placements. 10mm sleeve bolts are fine for less steep routes (low angle).

We strongly recommend cleaning your holes before installation. And replace your drill bit or chase the hole with a fresher bit when you begin noticing the sleeve bolt becoming much harder to hammer in . If the embossed text on the hex bolt is becoming to become smashed and unintelligible from having to hammer a lot and hard, you definitely need a new bit. A bolt with too tight of a fit breaks off more dust/grit inside the hole, which in turn can get into the threads and increase changes of galling.

UPDATE 5/8/25: If ordering the 12 mm x 120 mm size, we recommend using a fresher bit, or chasing the hole with a newer bit; otherwise the sleeve-fit will be a bit tighter from worn-down bits that make smaller diameter holes. Fortunately our future batches of this particular size sleeve bolt will have a slightly less wide diameter sleeve. But for this initial batch, we recommend a more true-to-size hole.

There's further discussion about these sleeve bolts on this forum thread.

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